Uncorking Success in Lithuania's Wine World

Words Vidula KotianDate 11 September 2024

Kamilė Bartusevičiūtė is making waves as the celebrated head sommelier at Hotel Pacai in Vilnius' Old Town, racking up awards such as a silver at the Star Wine List Awards 2023 and a Sommelier Award at the Lithuanian Michelin Awards 2024.

From her musical roots to mastering wine, her curiosity shines through. Kamilė champions exploring diverse grape varieties and producers. We caught up with her to dive into her unshakeable dedication to wine, explore the burgeoning Lithuanian wine landscape, and uncover her top hangout spots in the vibrant heart of the capital.

What is your secret to creating an award-winning wine list?

Just an honest approach. As sommeliers, our job is to harmonize our selections with both the guests’ tastes and the chefs' culinary creations. The wines I select are directly influenced by the dishes our chef crafts—each choice aims to accentuate the ingredients and enhance the flavor harmony. The ambiance of our venue—a blend of sublime classicism and modern elegance—also inspires our list. We focus on classics with a twist of modern flair.

What is a classic wine with a modern profile?

We focus on countries with rich winemaking heritages, notably France and Italy, featuring celebrated regions like Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Tuscany. However, we also embrace innovative offerings such as English sparkling wines, which are experiencing a boom. This blend of traditional and emerging selections reflects our commitment to both heritage and modernity in our wine list.

In your search for wines around the world, did any place surprise you? 

The wine world is incredibly diverse and charming. Every winemaker pours their heart and soul into their creations, and there’s always something new to discover. While numbers and photos offer some insight, nothing compares to visiting the vineyards themselves.

I visited Porto and Douro Valley last year and no photo I've seen reflects how astonishing the valley is. In May, I visited a winery in Tuscany that I’ve worked with since the beginning. I knew it’s a small production, but I didn’t know it was only four people. That kind of visit is always a humbling experience that highlights the special, personal touch they bring to their wines.

What brought you to the wine world?

During my studies in international relations and political science, I worked at restaurants, which unexpectedly sparked my interest in wine. Before diving into my bachelor's thesis, I took a year off. Encouraged by my partner and friends who noticed my passion for wine, I decided to explore it professionally. This led me to “Somm,” a renowned wine bar in Vilnius, where I had the opportunity to learn from some of the best sommeliers in the country.

Tell us a little bit about native Lithuanian wines.

Global warming has recently turned our country into a burgeoning winemaking region. Though we’re newcomers to the scene, the future looks promising. I had the honor to be one of the judges at the Lithuanian Wine Championship for the past three years and the quality of the wines is rising every year. Our apples, pears, and berries are wonderful, so there are some truly marvelous apple ice wines, ciders, and berry wines. 

How does one select a good wine?

When visiting a wine shop, I recommend trusting the professionals there. As sommeliers, we are there to help and if you choose it yourself, you’re kind of doing our job. If you’re a fan of Rieslings and Spätburgunders from Pfalz in Germany, for example, consider exploring other options from the region, like different international grape varieties or another producer. Stepping out of your comfort zone can broaden your palate and enrich your tasting experience.

What do you do to relax?

A good movie or a walk around the neighborhood.

What is home for you? 

Feeling at home comes from being with genuine good company—my family, friends, and fiancé. When I’m with them, I feel relaxed, heard, and completely at ease.

Do you have a favorite wine?

As a sommelier, it's a very hard to answer this question, but I do enjoy sparkling wines, light-bodied whites, and exceptionally light reds. Riesling is one of my favorite grape varieties due to its incredible versatility and the diverse profiles it can present.

Is there a biodynamic wine scene in Lithuania?

Recently, there’s been a surge in natural wine bars, with five or six new openings this year alone that are thriving. While this trend was more prominent in places like New York a few years ago, it’s now gaining momentum in the Baltic states. Unfortunately, the focus often leans towards the funkier, more unconventional natural wines, rather than those of higher quality. When natural wine is crafted expertly, it can be indistinguishable from conventional wine. There's a common misconception that natural wines should have a funky flavor, but this is usually a sign of faults in the winemaking process, not an inherent characteristic.